Skin problems health centre

Skin conditions: Understanding skin care products

Alpha. Beta. Acids, vitamins and derivatives -- All of these words sound more like stuff in a science experiment than lotions or creams for your skin. If you are having trouble deciphering the language of skin care products, never fear: this simple guide will help you understand the latest ingredients that may benefit your skin.

Use this information to sort through the various skin care products on the market. If you're still unsure which skin care products are right for you, ask your local beauty therapist or pharmacist for advice.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Over-the-counter skin care products containing alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, tartaric and citric acids) have become increasingly popular over the past five years.  Creams and lotions with alpha-hydroxy acids may help with fine lines, irregular pigmentation and age spots. Side effects of alpha-hydroxy acids include mild irritation and sun sensitivity. For that reason, sunscreen should be used every morning. To help avoid skin irritation with alpha-hydroxy acids, it is advisable to start with a product with low concentrations of AHA. Also, give your skin a chance to get used to the product. Start out by applying AHA skin products every other day, gradually working up to a daily application.

Beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid)

Salicylic acid has been studied for its effect on skin that has aged prematurely due to exposure to ultraviolet rays from the sun. It exfoliates skin and can improve the texture and colour of the skin. It penetrates oil-laden hair follicle openings and, as a result, also helps with acne. There are many skin care products available that contain salicylic acid. Some are available over-the-counter and others require a doctor's prescription. Studies have shown that salicylic acid is less irritating than skin care products containing alpha-hydroxy acids, while offering similar improvement in skin texture and colour.

Warning: People who are allergic to salicylates (found in aspirin) should not use products containing salicylic acid. This is due to the fact that salicylic acid can be absorbed into the bloodstream and may cause an allergic reaction or contact dermatitis. Pregnant or nursing women should talk to their doctor before using any products containing salicylic acid.

Hydroquinone

Skin care products containing hydroquinone are popularly referred to as bleaching creams or lightening agents. These skin care products are used to lighten hyperpigmentation, such as age spots and dark spots related to pregnancy or hormone therapy (melasma or chloasma). If you are allergic to hydroquinones, you can use products containing kojic acid (see below) instead.

Kojic acid

Kojic acid is a more recent remedy for the treatment of pigment problems and age spots. Discovered in 1989, kojic acid has a similar effect to hydroquinone. Kojic acid is derived from a fungus, and studies have shown that it is effective as a lightening agent, inhibiting production of melanin (brown pigment).